Put yourself in a coastal state of mind at this Peruvian strip-mall joint, where the strongest dishes center on seafood. Ceviches and sashimi-like tiraditos emphasize the freshness of the fish without too much pucker of lime. Parihuela, a tomato-based shellfish soup with crab legs, clams, and scallops, contains the depth of a long-simmering French bouillabaisse—albeit with a spicy kick. Humbler fried trout is a sleeper hit thanks to roasted-garlic chips and sarsa criolla (tangy slivers of marinated onion). Don’t forget a round of pisco sours; the restaurant might not have a physical bar, but it serves one of the better versions around. Inexpensive.
Also great: Lomo saltado (beef with tomatoes and onion); causa sampler (whipped-potato cakes with crab or tuna salad); sirloin empanada; rice pudding.