With its heavy, hand-carved wooden doors and copper goddess statuettes, this is one of the most palatial settings in which to find a $4 appetizer. Curries are assertive—the chicken makhani is tangier and more tomatoey than most—and there are good versions of naanand mint paratha to dunk into them. The kitchen is equally adept with the fryer, turning out crisp, chickpea-battered chilies and chicken-stuffed samosas.
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