There’s no single dish that makes this buzzing Merrifield restaurant so winning. Its enduring appeal is its promise of one-stop shopping. Few restaurants are comfier and more beautiful, provide more attentive service, and send out such consistently well-executed plates, from a picture-perfect shrimp toast to the bountiful vermicelli salad known as bun—all for only slightly more than what you’d pay at T.G.I. Friday’s.
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