When people say you don’t go to the Eden Center for atmosphere, this is the kind of place they have in mind—a dim joint with no outside light and little charm. What makes it essential? The speedy kitchen shows its mastery across a wide range of dishes. Go for pho; banh xao, the over-stuffed rice crepe; and a robust rendition of the soy-spiked stir-fry classic known as “shaky beef.”
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