Dining at the Eden Center’s oldest restaurant is not the equivalent of watching a faded actress in a cameo tha’s an homage to her glory days. This grande dame can still bring it. The happy chaos might put you in mind of a diner, but the cooking won’t. The best dishes—including roast quail, stuffed crepes, and grilled pork with vermicelli—have the brightness and depth of a chef-driven vehicle costing three times as much.
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