Cheap Eats 2013: Huong Viet

Quick reviews of ethnic cuisines you can experience for less than $25 a person, tax and tip included.
Photograph by Scott Suchman.
Photograph by Scott Suchman.

Dining at the Eden Center’s oldest restaurant is not the equivalent of watching a faded actress in a cameo tha’s an homage to her glory days. This grande dame can still bring it. The happy chaos might put you in mind of a diner, but the cooking won’t. The best dishes—including roast quail, stuffed crepes, and grilled pork with vermicelli—have the brightness and depth of a chef-driven vehicle costing three times as much.

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