This is essentially two restaurants in one, and trust us—you’ll want to ditch the Chinese-American menu for the Chinese one. The reward? Szechuan cooking in all its complexity. It’s not only about heat (steamed buns with chicken and garlicky cucumbers are musts), but the magic of the idiom is best articulated by the fabulous flounder and vegetables in fiery soup, a dish that numbs the lips like Novocaine and blasts the tongue like Tabasco.
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