All-you-can-eat gets a bad rap at most places. But at this Korean barbecue joint, it’s one of the best ways to attack the menu. For $23 a person ($21 at lunch), get your fill of spicy pork belly, fatty brisket, and other meats grilled on the table. The restaurant is just as generous with panchan, free sides that include lemon-wasabi daikon and pickled chayote squash. Little touches—drawers at every table for chopsticks, stools that double as storage for your coat so it doesn’t smell smoky—make Kogiya stand out all the more. Also good: Galbi, soy-marinated short ribs; miso pork belly.