The ceviche is the first hint that this lantern-lit restaurant excels at seafood. A lime-marinated mix of squid, shrimp, and tilapia is as vivid-tasting as it is colorful. So, too, the sashimi-like tiradito, bathed in a bright-yellow aji-pepper sauce. Cooked preparations of seafood are equally noteworthy, particularly the arroz con mariscos, a close cousin to Spanish paella, with saffron-infused rice. Not all the hits once swam in the sea. Don’t ignore the rotisserie chickens rotating over charcoal as you walk in. Also good: Papa rellena, mashed potatoes stuffed with beef and egg; fried trout with roasted garlic.