Fifteen years on, this Del Ray fixture has evolved from a quirky neighborhood standby to a destination for a fun and unpretentious brunch. A recent renovation brought textured wallpaper, dangling lights, and erector-set tracks poised high above diners’ heads, modernizing the setting without compromising its funky character. The same might be said of the appealing roster of brunch staples (two Benedicts, French toast, quiche, and hash) that chef Jim Jeffords, who cooked previously at Sou’Wester, supplements with Southern indulgences—chicken and waffles, biscuits and redeye gravy, house-cured bacon, and stone-ground grits. There’s a trip north, too—a warm, gooey sticky bun that would melt a Philadelphian’s skeptical heart. Saturday 11 to 2:30, Sunday 10 to 2:30.