Food

100 Best Restaurants 2012: Zaytinya

Tried and True: 10 Restaurants that Have Consistently Offered Very Good Dining

_

“So many mezze, so little time” is our lament when dining at restaurateur JosĂ© AndrĂ©s’s ode to Greek, Turkish, and Lebanese cuisine. Chef de cuisine Michael Costa’s menu is constantly evolving. One thing worth looking for: aromatic haunches of lamb roasting on an open spit several days a week.

Soaring ceilings and hits of Aegean blue against a white backdrop give a Euro-chic feel to the space, which can get loud. A mezzanine dining area puts you above the crowds, but sometimes it’s more fun to mix it up below, particularly at the long communal table.

What to get: Silky taramasalata; caramelized okra with crispy chickpeas; hunkar begendi, braised lamb shank with eggplant-kefalograviera purĂ©e; snail kibbeh; walnut ice cream with orange-caramel sauce; Greek-yogurt cream with Muscat-soaked apricots and pistachio powder.

Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.