Cuisine: The buttery biscuits that land on the table at the start of every meal amount to a declaration: This is no place for calorie counters. And it only gets better—or worse—from there. Jeff Tunks has fashioned a rich excursion into down-home “Looziana” cooking, from New Orleans–style barbecue shrimp to classic seafood gumbo to oyster po’ boys. If the menu says something is served with warm French bread, chances are there’s a buttery sauce to be mopped up with it.
Mood: For all the decadence, the dining room is almost matronly—with tall, tapestried booths, oversize chandeliers, and decorative urns. But that hasn’t kept it from becoming a power spot.
Best for: Louisiana expats and anyone who craves Mardi Gras–like decadence and traditional Louisiana cocktails—with all the customary kick.
Best dishes: Trio of deviled eggs with toppings such as ham, crab, and shrimp; seafood gumbo; roast duck over smoky greens; barbecue shrimp; shrimp and oyster po’ boys (lunch only); chocolate doberge cake; Pimm’s Cup cocktail.
Insider tips: Deals here include a $29 three-course pre-theater menu from 5:30 to 6:30 daily, half-price wines on Sunday, and bar specials on drinks and nibbles during happy hours and Sunday football games.
Service: ••½
Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Expensive.
See all of 2010's 100 Best Restaurants
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
