There’s more than one way to cobble together a midweek meal at this sprawling eat-in/takeout. First, it’s a grocery store stocked with exotic items—Lebanese fig jam, Greek stuffed grape leaves—crying out for culinary experimentation. Then there are refrigerated cases filled with party-platter classics that make a fast and healthy meal when paired with pita: Bulgarian feta ($7 a pound), tabbouleh ($5.95 a pound), smoky baba ghanoush and top-notch hummus (both $3.95 a pound), and nutmeg-and-cumin-spiced “kibby,” a blend of ground meat, pine nuts, and onions ($7.95 a pound).
Beyond those is a takeout window in the back where sandwiches and platters featuring kebabs, shawarma, and the like (about $4.95 each) are prepared and served warm. Crisp baklava ($8.49 a pound) is a standout from the dessert case, as are the dried-apricot melban, round sweets with nougat and crushed pistachios.
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Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
