Food

Cheap Eats 2012: Spice Xing

Tandoori chicken wings (left) and Balchao shrimp (right). Photographs by Scott Suchman.
Tandoori chicken wings (left) and Balchao shrimp (right). Photographs by Scott Suchman.

Cheap Eats 2012

This Rockville Town Square dining room is as colorful as a Delhi spice market—a fitting setting for the creative Indian cooking, which you can sample the old-fashioned way—with communal bowls of curries and fluffy rice—or with an array of small plates.

Among the latter are such snack-size shares as fat prawns butterflied and glazed in tangy tamarind, aggressively spiced tandoori wings, and a tiny version of the paper-thin crepes known as dosas.

Among curries and stews, we like the rich and piquant paneer makhani and the slightly sweet Persian-style lamb stew with apricots. This is one of the prettier affordable restaurants, but takeout is available at a 15-percent discount, and curries travel especially well.

Also good: Papri chaat, a potato-and-chickpea salad with yogurt and chutney; scallops cooked on the tawa grill; shrimp in a green-chili/coconut curry; tandoori pineapple; lychee mojito and martini; tamarind margarita.

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