Bride & Groom MOM Subscribe

Find Local

From Royal Bagel to Minibar: Bagels and Lox Go Humble to Haute

Some Washington restaurants have taken a common breakfast pairing and tailored it to a white-tablecloth menu.

At Royal Bagel Bakery & Deli: bagels, cream cheese, and lox the old-fashioned way. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Few breakfasts are simpler and more satisfying than a bagel with cream cheese and slices of lox—the cured, cold-smoked salmon that’s the pride of many a Jewish deli. Now it’s become the pride of many kinds of restaurants. We’ll start at the humble end of the spectrum:

Royal Bagel Bakery & Deli. This family-run shop excels at the tried and true—cream-cheese-smeared rounds layered with Nova lox.

2 Amys. Sunday mornings, the pizza oven at this Cleveland Park Italian spot creates house-made bagels using whey left over from the buffalo mozzarella and slathered with house-made cream cheese. They’re topped with—what else?—lox cured in-house.

Michel. In Michel Richard’s whirring mind, a breakfast staple becomes a dinner appetizer in the form of a many-layered terrine of salmon and crème fraîche.

Volt. Thin slices of braised, cold-smoked, and sous-vide-cooked Arctic char are paired with “flavors of everything bagel”—crumbs of brioche pulverized with bacon, garlic chips, and coriander.

Minibar. Dinner at José Andrés’s modernist mecca—and at his Los Angeles restaurant, the Bazaar—might start with a dill-cream-cheese-filled cone topped with salmon roe.

This article appears in the April 2011 issue of The Washingtonian.  

Subscribe to Washingtonian

Follow Washingtonian on Twitter

Follow the Best Bites Bloggers on Twitter

More>> Best Bites Blog | Food & Dining | Restaurant Finder
blog comments powered by Disqus

Most Popular on Washingtonian

Everything You Need to Know About Pho*

The First Thanksgiving Took Place in Virginia, not Massachusetts

15 Casual (But Still Really Cool) Gifts for Your New Boyfriend

9 Restaurants Native Washingtonians Love (Even If No Else Does)

The Unbelievable Story of the Guy Who Jumped the White House Fence Four Times

Free Things to Do in DC November 25-29: A Complimentary Turkey Fry

The Great Washington Bucket List: 50 Things Every Local Needs to Do

20 Great Walks Around Washington, DC

Best Places to Ski Near DC, VA, & MD