Set on the fourth floor of a high-rise that overlooks Georgetown University’s Gothic spires across the Potomac, Domaso highlights northern-Italian cuisine—and that doesn’t mean just Tuscany. “I’m sick of people coming back from Italy who only rave about Tuscany, or think that Northern Italian food only means the Tuscan kind,” says Italian-born chef Massimo Fedozzi. Though he pays homage to the region with his panzanella (a traditional Tuscan bread salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, and basil), much of the menu is inspired by the restaurant’s namesake, a fishing village in the Lombardy region. Urgiada soup, a Lake Como specialty made from barley and borlotti beans, is something you’re not likely to find on the menu at other haute Italian restaurants in the area.
The highlight of all the nibbles came at the end—Italian-style donuts called krafen, filled with chestnut mousse, Concord grape, and rum-infused cream. Because the kitchen has a wide-open fishbowl effect, there was no hiding the pastry chef’s preparation. There were platters of the miniature beignet-like balls to fry and fill all night.
Domaso Trattoria Moderna, 1121 N. 19th St. (Hotel Palomar), Arlington; 703-351-1211; domasotrattoria.com.