100 Best Restaurants 2008: Foti's
No. 71: Foti's
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli, Dave McIntyre
Comments () | Published January 1, 2008

Foti's
Address: 219 E. Davis St. , Culpeper, VA 22701
Phone: 540-829-8400
Neighborhood: Culpeper
Cuisines: Modern, American
Opening Hours: Open Wednesday through Friday 11:30 to 2, 5:30 to 9:30; Saturday 12 to 2, 5 to 9:30 and Sunday 12 to 8.
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Kid Friendly: Yes
Price Range: Expensive
Reservations: Recommended
Special Features:
Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly, Weekend Brunch, Party Space, Good for Groups

Cuisine: Contemporary American cooking with upscale flourishes—the chef, Frank Maragos, is an Inn at Little Washington alum—but an absence of experimentation and a fierce determination to stay rooted in place: The produce and meats are mostly from around Culpeper.

Mood: Wrought-iron chandeliers adorn an airy, brick-lined room that feels like an enclosed courtyard—just one of the charms of making the trek out to this Federal-era town ringed by Civil War battlefields.

Best for: A relaxing dinner after visiting Virginia wine country, Luray Caverns, or the Brandy Station battlefield. It’s one of the few respites from the chain restaurants along Route 29.

Best dishes: “Ham-and-egg sandwich,” an appetizer of grilled garlic-scented ciabatta with a fried egg, Calhoun’s country ham (a local treasure), and baby arugula; a tower of roasted beets and goat cheese with pickled mushrooms and fried walnuts; citrussy salmon given an Asian twist with pickled ginger and jasmine rice; hazelnut and chocolate pots de crème that will make Nutella fans swoon.

Insider tips: Foti’s abounds in Southern hospitality: Running late from your winery visit? No problem. Bringing your kids? There’s no children’s menu, but Maragos can improvise a simple chicken dish that might make parents envious. One disappointment: The wine list doesn’t reflect the restaurant’s local roots, and the markups are high.

Service: ••½

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/01/2008 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews