100 Best Restaurants 2009: Sushi-Ko Chevy Chase
No. 29: Sushi-Ko Chevy Chase
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli, Rina Rapuano, Eve Zibart
Comments () | Published February 1, 2009
100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants 2012 Happy Hour 100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Sushiko II - Chevy Chase
Address: 5455 Wisconsin Ave., Chevy Chase, MD 20815
Phone: 301-961-1644
Neighborhood: Tenleytown/Friendship Heights, Chevy Chase
Cuisines: Sushi, Japanese
Opening Hours: Daily for lunch and dinner.
Nearby Metro Stops: Friendship Heights
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Spot-prawn nigiri; scallop sashimi; sashimi or nigiri of salmon, yellowtail, yellowtail belly, and mackerel; soft-shell crab; salmon teriyaki.

Cuisine: DC’s first sushi bar opened more than a quarter of a century ago in Glover Park. It remains the best, procuring its fish five times a week—most sushi bars have a standing order for two days a week—and upholding founder Daisuke Utagawa’s adherence to purity and simplicity. Still, that designation hardly does justice to the variety of plates on offer here or at the newer Chevy Chase location.

Mood: The Glover Park branch is serene and simple, outfitted on the cheap—strings of lights, molded plastic chairs—in an austere style that stops just short of trendy. The hushed quietude encourages diners to focus on the subtlety of the flavors. Sushi-Ko Chevy Chase is bigger and more dramatic, with high-backed booths, a long, eye-catching sushi bar, and a soundtrack out of a European nightclub.

Best for: A leisurely lunch or a light and restorative dinner.

Best dishes: Smoked-mussel-and-eggplant miso; rock-shrimp-and-asparagus tempura; Tuna Five Ways, a progressive tasting of the prized fish concluding with a meltingly rich slab of o-toro; beef tataki made with tenderloin; salmon with red and white miso; selections of sashimi including yellowtail, scallop, eel, and uni.

Insider tips: The handful of Burgundies on the wine list—Utagawa discovered years ago that they go surprisingly well with the nigiri and sashimi—are as good as any of the chilled sakes on offer.

Service: ••½

DC branch open Sunday and Monday for dinner, Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner; Chevy Chase open daily for lunch and dinner. Moderate to expensive.

See all of 2009's 100 Best Restaurants

Subscribe to Washingtonian
Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 02/01/2009 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews