The bad news: The comforting Ecuadorian potato-egg stew called loroco and the crisped pork belly are gone. The good news: They’ve been replaced by more wonders. New chef Javier Angeles-Beron’s arroz tapado, a rice dish with layers of ground beef and raisins and a scattering of crispy leeks, has a homey elegance. And his take on the Peruvian stir-fry lomo saltado substitutes tenderloin for the cheaper cuts usually used, while a thick jus bathes tomatoes, red onions, and French fries.

Ceviche remains a stylish, high-energy restaurant/nightspot. The big communal table and the heaping bowls of mussels, given a new twist with chorizo and chimichurri, are well suited to large groups.

Want a post-AFI nightcap? Look to the well-made caipirinhas and mojitos with a basket of house-made plantain chips, a plate of crisp, cheesy corn fritters stuffed with Gruyère, or crusty sautéed potatoes. The marvelous cumin-and-beer-marinated chicken breast has been dry—a temporary glitch, we hope, in one of the most flavorful birds around.

Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for dinner.