Videos of gyrating women in sequined G-strings fill the overhead TV, but don’t let that fool you: This is a family joint, Bolivian-style, with old men at the counter reading Spanish-language newspapers and little kids playing between tables.

The sign outside reads pike pizza, but the only pies here are salteñas, sweet-spicy meat pastries eaten for breakfast or lunch. Grainy humitas (corn pudding steamed in the husk) are a terrific alternative at night. Spice-rubbed beef called laping chews like jerky and will appeal to diners who like a little gaminess. Cumin-fried pork chops are perfectly matched with a crisp Bolivian Pacena beer.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.