Why go: Barbecue nirvana it’s not, but there are lip-smacking good times to be had with the smoky meats and down-home sides at this eat-in/takeout joint with a Calder-style mobile of beer bottles swinging from the ceiling.

What to get: Sweet-and-salty house-made tortilla chips; Urban Legend, a fun-to-share take on nachos made with Fritos, brisket, and sausage; smoked meats—tender pulled pork, barbecue chicken, and house-made sausages; crunchy slaw; collards; mac and cheese; the brisket-and-ground-beef-laden Two Step Chili, which might not pass muster in Texas (it includes beans, a definite no-no) but is irresistible.

Best for: Diners who don’t fancy themselves barbecue purists—and those to whom small plates are an affront.

Insider tip: Check out the Ugly Bits, the meaty end portion of a rack of ribs that’s been smoked, deep-fried, and grilled with Urban’s vinegar-and-molasses red sauce. Thursday night there’s live music from 6 to 8.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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