January 2007 100 Very Best
Tom Power’s cooking is a mix of sensible combinations and technical skill.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
Comments () | Published January 8, 2007
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Address: 1122 Ninth St., NW, Washington, DC 20001
Phone: 202-589-0699
Neighborhood: U Street/Shaw, Downtown
Cuisines: Modern, American
Opening Hours: Open for dinner Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30.
Nearby Metro Stops: Mt. Vernon Square/7th St.-Convention Center
Price Range: Expensive
Dress: Upscale Casual
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Kabocha-squash soup with cheese crisp; red-snapper bisque; duck-egg-and-leg salad; lamb loin with garlic crépinette and creamed spinach; Muscovy duck with fig sauce; chocolate tart with caramelized bananas; house-made ice creams.
Price Details: Expensive; entrées $20 to $32.

No. 14 Corduroy

It’s on the second floor of a drab downtown DC hotel. The room has no personality. But then there’s Tom Power’s cooking. It doesn’t make a fetish of its sources and won’t provoke gasps over its baroque arrangements. If the practitioners of Modern American cooking are typically a boisterous lot, reveling in their mission to make it new, Power is just the opposite: an unshowy chef who proves himself again and again through his sensible combinations and technical skill.

Power has earned a following among food lovers who understand how rare it is to find careful cooking at reasonable prices. Soups and fish are his strengths—he has a knack for teasing out the essential flavors of a dish, rarely resorting to larding up his plates with cream and butter—and the best thing to do is to build your meal around them.

Elsewhere on the menu, look to pasta—a handmade tagliatelle is as good as any good Italian restaurant’s—a long-braised Asian-style pork belly with cabbage, and the roast chicken, a juicy, free-range bird with a golden-brown skin. They’re all dependable and often wonderful, a lot like the restaurant itself.

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Posted at 05:38 PM/ET, 01/08/2007 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews