Best Dishes Sev-murmura chaat; samosa with chickpeas and yogurt; lamb cooked in the tandoor oven; shrimp in coconut curry; pickle plate; fresh mango with yogurt.
Price Details: Entrees, $10.95 to $23.95.
At its best, Sudhir Seth’s Indian dining room in Bethesda is a celebration of the sophistication and variety of the subcontinent’s regional cuisines as well as a reminder that well-spiced cooking need not be scorching to be rewarding. But a recent meal showed the place operating below that ideal, with thin curries, tougher-than-usual meats, and muted saucing. The notable exception: the excellent pickle plate, a vivid display of what this veteran kitchen is capable of.