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The Needle: Passage to India
Comments () | Published April 29, 2010
100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Passage to India
Address: 4931 Cordell Ave., Bethesda, MD 20814
Phone: 301-656-3373
Neighborhood: Bethesda/Glen Echo
Cuisines: Vegetarian/Vegan, Indian
Opening Hours: Open daily for lunch 11:30 AM to 2:30 PM, and for dinner 5:30 PM to 10:30 PM.
Nearby Metro Stops: Bethesda
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Sev-murmura chaat; samosa with chickpeas and yogurt; lamb cooked in the tandoor oven; shrimp in coconut curry; pickle plate; fresh mango with yogurt.
Price Details: Entrees, $10.95 to $23.95.

At its best, Sudhir Seth’s Indian dining room in Bethesda is a celebration of the sophistication and variety of the subcontinent’s regional cuisines as well as a reminder that well-spiced cooking need not be scorching to be rewarding. But a recent meal showed the place operating below that ideal, with thin curries, tougher-than-usual meats, and muted saucing. The notable exception: the excellent pickle plate, a vivid display of what this veteran kitchen is capable of.

This article appeared in the April, 2010 issue of The Washingtonian.

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 04/29/2010 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews