100 Best Restaurants 2011: Bistro Bis
Comments () | Published January 18, 2011
100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants 2012 100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Bistro Bis
Address: 15 E Street, NW, Washington, DC 20001
Phone: 202-661-2700
Neighborhood: Capitol Hill
Cuisines: French, Breakfast
Opening Hours: Open daily 7 AM to 10:30 PM.
Nearby Metro Stops: Union Station, Judiciary Square
Price Range: Expensive
Dress: Business Attire
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Onion soup with Gruyère; duck-liver parfait; beet salad; mussels with cider cream; pan-roasted sirloin with fries; halibut with lobster; apple tart; fig tart with vanilla custard.
Price Details: Lunch appetizers, $8.75 to $11; entrees, $13.75 to $23.50. Dinner, appetizers $9.50 to $13; entrees, $22.50 to $31.50. Brunch appetizers, $9 to $11.50; entrees, $11.50 to $18. Three-course prix fixe brunch, $29.50.

Only the top 40 restaurants were ranked in 2011's Best Restaurants list.

Other restaurants might offer more novelty on the plate or excitement in the setting, but few are more dependable than Jeffrey Buben’s estimable Bis, which aims for an understated excellence. You see it in the dining room, bathed in buttery light; in the superb Gallic-heavy wine list; and in the cheese cart, arguably the finest in the area.

The kitchen trades on the sort of intricate, old-school dishes that the current crop of culinary-school grads tends to shun. How many places would have the confidence to make quenelles—pillowy scallop-mousse dumplings, here set atop a creamy lobster sauce—a signature dish or the guts to showcase pan-fried sweetbreads as a main course? Steak tartare has become trendy, but few preparations are as satisfying as this one—its embellishments evidence of genuine mastery.

Also good: Oyster velouté in puff pastry; fricassee of rabbit; glazed pork chop; Alsatian-style salmon with mustard sauce; apple tart; crème brûlée.

Open Monday through Friday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for breakfast, brunch, and dinner. Very expensive.

>> See all of 2011's Best Restaurants

 

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/18/2011 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews