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100 Best Restaurants 2011: Black Market Bistro
Comments () | Published January 18, 2011
100 Best Restaurants 2012 100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Black Market Bistro
Address: 4600 Waverly Ave., Kensington/Garrett Park, MD 20896
Phone: 301-933-3000
Neighborhood: Rockville, Kensington/Garrett Park
Cuisines: Modern, Breakfast, American
Opening Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11 to 2:30; Saturday 11 to 2:30. Open for dinner Monday through Thursday 5 to 9; Friday and Saturday 5 to 9:30; Sunday 5 to 8. Open for brunch Sunday 10 to 2.
Nearby Metro Stops: White Flint
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Cornmeal-fried oysters with tartar sauce; roast chicken; barbecue shrimp over corn-studded grits; wood-grilled hanger steak with chimichurri; fried-onion-topped cheeseburger; apple crisp; potato latkes and orange-vanilla French toast at brunch.
Price Details: Lunch appetizers, $4 to $9; entrées, $8 to $14. Dinner appetizers, $7 to $12; entrées, $9 to $25. Brunch entrées, $10 to $14.

Only the top 40 restaurants were ranked in 2011's Best Restaurants list.

In the world of fine dining, less is often more. That’s why it’s a compliment to say that this low-key spot—the best of Jeff and Barbara Black’s four restaurants—doesn’t try too hard.

The restored post office in leafy Garrett Park recalls a renovated inn in Charleston or Birmingham. The South isn’t consciously evoked, but its influence is unmistakable, from a well-priced menu that rarely changes to the kitchen’s strict adherence to an unfussy aesthetic. The best dishes—cornmeal-crusted oysters; a generous antipasto plate; spicy shrimp and grits—offer little in the way of discovery but are usually cooked very well. If there’s a surprise, it’s the wine list, a showcase of agreeably priced bottles from Napa, southern Rhône, Italy, and Australia that ranks among the best in Montgomery County.

Also good: Thai-style mussels; trout with almonds; hanger steak and fries; warm apple crisp; lemon-mousse cake.

Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.

>> See all of 2011's Best Restaurants

 

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/18/2011 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews