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100 Best Restaurants 2011: New Heights
Comments () | Published January 20, 2011
100 Best Restaurants 2012 100 Best Restaurants (2011)

New Heights
Address: 2317 Calvert St., NW, Washington, DC 20008
Phone: 202-234-4110
Neighborhood: Woodley Park
Cuisines: Modern, Fusion/Eclectic, American
Opening Hours: Open Sunday through Thursday for 5 PM to 10 PM, Friday and Saturday 5 PM to 10:30 PM.
Nearby Metro Stops: Woodly Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan
Price Range: Expensive
Dress: Upscale Casual
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Roasted beet salad; potted black-bean rillettes; smoked trout with soba noodles; seared sea scallops with sweet-potato-duck hash; wild boar chop with red mole sauce; macaroni and cheese; creme brulee.
Price Details: Appetizers, $7.50 to $11; main courses, $19 to $29.

Logan Cox’s cooking at this Woodley Park veteran aims to challenge diners with unexpected combinations of ingredients in a way few chefs dare. He doesn’t always succeed, but at its best, his cooking is as satisfying as it is playful.

Cox apprenticed under exacting Palena chef Frank Ruta, and it shows in the clarity and precision of his dishes, whether it’s his dim-sum-gone-mad-scientist scallop dumpling, his house-made agnolotti filled with bitter greens, or his preparations of braised or poached fish.

New Heights is among a shrinking group of independent fine-dining restaurants, which means portions tend to be small, and the dining room seems dated in comparison with the chef’s daring. But longtime owner Umbi Singh runs the operation with a steady hand and the drinking is as good as the eating thanks to a first-rate by-the-glass wine list, a creative cocktail program, and one of the best gin selections anywhere.

Also good: Cod croquettes; pan-roasted guinea hen; sugar-and-masala-spiced doughnuts.

Open daily for dinner. Expensive.

>> See all of 2011's Best Restaurants

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/20/2011 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews