Cheap Eats 2011: La Sirenita
Comments () | Published August 15, 2011
Cheap Eats (2010) Cheap Eats 2011
La Sirenita
Address: 4911 Edmonston Rd., Hyattsville, MD 20781
Phone: 301-864-0188
Neighborhood: Hyattsville
Cuisines: South American, Mexican, Breakfast
Opening Hours: Open daily except Tuesday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Nearby Metro Stops: West Hyattsville, Landover
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Rowdy
Reservations: Not Accepted
Best Dishes Chilaquiles with a fried egg on top; chorizo, salty beef, and tongue tacos; chile relleno; chicken mole; posole; melon, a canteloupe drink.
Price Details: Appetizers $2.50 to $12.50; entrées $8 to $18.50.

The black plastic plates, the picnic utensils--they're gone, replaced by china on woven placemats and real cutlery. But the cooking at Emma Perez's place has always bespoken these sorts of refinements. Her kitchen executes her multi-page menu with confidence and consistency, as adept with surf--a beautiful and delicious lime-marinated tilapia fanned atop a red-pepper sauce, a ceviche that's among the area's best--as with turf. Grilled beef hearts amount to a cheap steak dinner, and the weekend-only ají de gallina, shredded chicken in a creamy sauce of eggs, olives, and milk, achieves a certain alchemy when mixed with its side of rice.

Even if you're stuffed, you can't leave without a bite of Perez's homemade alfajores--anise shortbread cookies filled with caramel. Sublime.

Also good: Ceviche; Cubano sandwich; papa rellena, mounds of potato stuffed with seasoned meat; causa, rounds of soft-cooked potato with chicken salad or shrimp and avocado; fried whole trout.

Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 08/15/2011 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews