Cuisine: It could be called Le Paradox: On certain days, Yannick Cam’s kitchen sends out some of the city’s most ethereal cooking. On others you can get disappointing plates—especially considering that appetizers can reach $32. The menu is resolutely French and heavy on luxe ingredients such as osetra caviar and foie gras, none of which matters if the kitchen isn’t in gear.

Mood: European formality suffuses the honey-toned dining room, where freshly cut orchids grace every table and the ceiling glimmers with starry lights. The crowd ranges from elegantly scarfed Parisian women discussing the china to lawyers dissecting the leather-bound wine list.

Best for: A business lunch; a romantic dinner when cost isn’t a concern; fans of lobster—it’s all over the menu and shows up in many of Cam’s most memorable dishes.

Best dishes: Lobster purse bound by a thin dumpling skin and drizzled with gingery carrot purée; lobster gazpacho, a claw with avocado terrine and tomato; lobster bathed in Sauternes butter with slivers of grapefruit zest; silky foie gras terrine with apricots; foie-gras-laced boudin blanc; buffalo-mozzarella salad with tomatoes and olives; roasted squab with foie gras and plum pudding; veal osso buco; rum-soaked baba with vanilla ice cream; Granny Smith–apple soufflé.

Insider tips: There’s a terrific bargain to be had at lunch: an appetizer and entrée for $35 or two appetizers and an entrée for $45. Portions aren’t stinting, and though you won’t find foie gras with the squab, all the lobster dishes are included.

Service: ••  

Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Monday and Saturday for dinner. Very expensive.

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