Why go: Soul-food joints abound, but none is as appealing as this bustling operation, a joint effort of friends Indiah Wilson and Oji Abbott. For all the heft of the portions, this is detail-driven cooking—from the blend of spices in the fried chicken to the creamy softness of the mac and cheese.

What to get: Definitive Southern-fried chicken (almost exclusively meaty wings); collard greens; the mac and cheese of your dreams; pounded breast of turkey slathered with Cajun seasonings and deep-fried; egg-fortified sweet potatoes.

Best for: Late-night refueling; a quick dinner.

Insider tip: After midnight on weekends, there’s chicken and waffles—a glorious way to split the difference between dinner and breakfast.

Open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.

>> See all 2009 Cheap Eats restaurants here