Why go: In Virginia, where kebab houses are more ubiquitous than burger joints, there’s lots of competition for the title of best kebab. In Maryland, the king is this local Afghan chain, a pay-at-the-counter operation with plastic utensils that could teach many an elegant restaurant lessons in quality, consistency, and value.

What to get: Aushak, translucent, scallion-filled dumplings topped with yogurt and meat sauce; chowpan, three charcoal-grilled lamb chops; bone-in chicken and minced-meat kebabs; the chickpea-and-onion stew called channa; mango lassi.

Best for: Takeout; picnics.

Insider tip: Skip the colas in the refrigerated case and order the frothy, mint-flecked yogurt drink doogh—a welcome digestive for such a meat-heavy repast.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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