Cheap Eats 2007: Il Pizzico
Comments () | Published July 13, 2007

Il Pizzico
Address: 15209 Frederick Rd., Rockville, MD 20850
Phone: 301-309-0610
Neighborhood: Rockville
Cuisines: Italian
Opening Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30. Open for dinner Monday through Thursday 5 to 9:30; Friday and Saturday 5 to 10.
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Kid Friendly: Yes
Nearby Metro Stops: Shady Grove
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Not Accepted
Best Dishes Arugula with speck; bresaola; carpaccio; gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce or tomato sauce; mushroom ravioli with pistachio cream; maltagliati with veal sauce; bucatini with creamy tomato sauce; rigatoni with fennel and garlic bread crumbs; swordfish with oni
Price Details: Appetizers $4.50 to $6.50; entrées $10.95 to $19.95.
Special Features:
Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly, Good for Groups
Food Specials

Take a charming trattoria of the kind you might find in Philly or New York and put it in the hands of owners with the sensibility of fast-food managers. Disinclined to turn away crowds, management paces meals with ruthless efficiency: Main courses are apt to follow moments after appetizers, and you can count on the check hitting the table with your last bite of dessert. If ever there was a place to go before a movie, this is it.

Which is too bad, because this ought to be the kind of place to make an evening out of—it has the satisfying, affordably priced Italian cooking too little in evidence in Washington. The tightly focused menu lets the kitchen concentrate on getting the simple things right: The pastas are all made in-house (the gnocchi is terrific), the salads are judiciously dressed, the sauces and ragus are rarely so burdensome as to blanket the taste of a meat or fish (making for a splendid veal scaloppine), and desserts often are as light as they are rich.

If only you had time to linger over all of it.

Open daily except Sunday for lunch and dinner.

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Posted at 10:02 AM/ET, 07/13/2007 RSS | Print | Permalink | Restaurant Reviews