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Cheap Eats 2008: Queen Makeda
Comments () | Published June 1, 2008
Queen Makeda
Address: 1917 Ninth St., NW, Washington, DC 20001
Phone: 202-232-5665
Neighborhood: U Street/Shaw
Cuisines: Ethiopian
Opening Hours: Open daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.
Nearby Metro Stops: U Street/African-American Civil War Memorial/Cardozo
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Not Needed
Best Dishes Shiro, a yellow split-pea stew; bone-in lamb in alicha, a sauce made from turmeric, garlic, and onion; gored gored, stir-fried cubes of beef in a peppery sauce; kitfo, an Ethiopian steak tartare.

Why go: Ethiopian food is grandma food, and the second-best place to experience one of DC’s most interesting and rewarding cuisines is at this grandma-driven establishment, a chartreuse townhouse across the street from Little Ethiopia’s reigning matriarch, Etete. Kefaynesh Demssie is the cook and co-owner (with son Sofonias Amde), serving up rich, aggressively spiced stews in a remodeled townhouse that boasts hand-stitched canopies and a tiki bar.

What to get: Shiro, a yellow split-pea stew as creamy as a velouté and with a cinnamon perfume; thick, bone-in hunks of lamb in alicha, a spicy yellow sauce made from turmeric, garlic, and onion; gored gored, stir-fried cubes of beef in a light, peppery sauce; spicy, buttery kitfo, an Ethiopian steak tartare.

Best for: A civilized meal in a setting that encourages lingering.

Insider tip: Asking for extra helpings—almost unthinkable at any other restaurant—might here elicit a smile of pride from the sweet-natured staff.

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 06/01/2008 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews