Cheap Eats 2008: Thai Square
Comments () | Published June 1, 2008
Thai Square
Address: 3217 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA 22204
Phone: 703.685.7040
Neighborhood: Arlington
Cuisines: Thai
Opening Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Nearby Metro Stops: Pentagon City
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: N/A
Reservations: Not Needed
Best Dishes Kanom jeeb; pig’s-knuckle stew; honey-roasted duck; stir-fry of catfish, eggplant, and rhizome.
Price Details: Appetizers $3.50 to $9.50, entrées $8.95 to $12.95.

Why go: In an era of Technicolor Thai restaurants with kitschy names and candy-colored cocktails, this bare-walled, one-room storefront seems almost, well, square. The focus is cooking, which pumps new life into familiar dishes.

What to get: Kanom jeeb, a thick, pleated dumpling filled with shrimp; pig’s-knuckle stew, a braised hunk of knee meat in a broth laced with cinnamon, ginger, and star anise; crunchy honey-roasted duck; a chili-fired stir-fry of catfish, eggplant, and rhizome.

Best for: Diners who prefer to be dazzled by flavor rather than atmosphere.

Insider tip: Though the menu doesn’t say so, the kitchen doesn’t mind swapping proteins (tofu for pork, pork for chicken) for many of the main courses.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 06/01/2008 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews