January 2007: 100 Very Best Restaurants
A stylishly funky Glover Park fixture for some of the freshest raw fish around.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
Comments () | Published January 3, 2007
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Sushiko I
Address: 2309 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20007
Phone: 202-333-4187
Neighborhood: Glover Park
Cuisines: Sushi, Japanese
Opening Hours: Open Monday through Friday 6 to 10:30, Saturday 5:30 to 11, Sunday 5 to 10.
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Kid Friendly: Yes
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Spot-prawn nigiri; a presentation of scallop sashimi, alternately rich and clean; sashimi or nigiri of salmon, yellowtail, yellowtail belly, and mackerel; a light and crisp deep-fried soft-shell crab with ponzu sauce; salmon teriyaki.
Price Details: Entrees, $10 to $28.
Special Features:
Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly

No. 19: Sushi Ko

The sushi boom is over. Tuna is so oversourced that even most sushi bars can’t get their hands on the good stuff. Second- and third-rate places are the rule, flopping slices of mediocre fish over sodden clumps of rice. What’s a sushi lover to do?

Step into this stylishly funky bistro in DC’s Glover Park. Park yourself at the wraparound sushi bar, nod respectfully toward chef Koji Terano, and utter a single word: omakase. That’s an invitation for Terano to put together a meal of his choosing, which might begin with a bowl of warm, salted edamame, move on to a soothing rice porridge, then get down to business with the fabulous Tuna Six Ways—a sort of Goldberg Variations of tuna that showcases the versatile fish’s range, from the melting, salt-watery chu-toro to a slab of seared otoro that will satisfy any hankering for a big, charred steak—and a selection of pristinely cared for and artfully presented sashimi.

Sake is the expected drink to go with these fresh, clean flavors, but a glass of Bordeaux from the small, well-chosen list is just as rewarding.

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Posted at 06:41 PM/ET, 01/03/2007 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews