Johnny Boy's Ribs
The barbecue at this dilapidated shack is the real deal.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
Comments () | Published October 17, 2006
Cheap Eats (2009)

Johnny Boy Ribs
Address: 7540 Crain Hwy., La Plata, MD 20646
Phone: 301-870-2526
Neighborhood: La Plata
Cuisines: Southern, Barbecue, American
Opening Hours: Open Sunday through Thursday 11 AM to 8 PM; Friday and Saturday 11 AM to 9 PM.
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Kid Friendly: Yes
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Informal
Reservations: Not Needed
Best Dishes A slab of ribs; pulled pork flecked with char and suffused with smoke; potato salad (it outshines the middlin’ fries); sweet tea.
Price Details: Entrées, $2.25 to $22.75.
Special Features:
Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly, Outdoor Seating, Good for Groups
Scene:
Outdoor Seating

From June 2006 Cheap Eats

The first law of barbecue is that your chances of finding memorable barbecue increase the farther you get from the city--and not just because good 'cue is all about open space and billowing smoke. In this area, it's because most jurisdictions either prohibit open-pit cooking or closely regulate it. Charles County is an exception, and cooking over an open pit is what separates the meat at this legendary place from so many urban pretenders.

Johnny Boy's isn't pretty--it's a shack with peeling paint--and there's no indoor seating. The second law of barbecue might well be "The more dilapidated the place, the better." Those gusts of hickory and oak smoke spiraling up and over the little white shack are beauty enough.

Walk up to the window and place your order. Inside, there's a grill over an open fire and a team of workers hacking away with cleavers, dividing rib racks, shredding slabs of pork shoulder, reducing beef briskets into a manageable mince. Then take a seat at one of the 16 picnic tables.

The ribs are thick, the meat faintly pink along the edges--a sign that smoke has permeated the meat--and there's a pronounced taste of celery salt in the crusty exterior. Mama Sophie's red sauce--equal parts tang, sweetness, and spice--makes ideal match. See if you can resist dragging some of the beautifully crisped fries through it.

The pulled pork hardly needs Mama Sophie's help, but meat and sauce make a terrific match, especially on a bun with cool, creamy coleslaw. The threads of pork look almost spun. Bits of char find their way into the tangle, and the whole thing is suffused with smoke and salt.

Subscribe to Washingtonian
Posted at 03:49 PM/ET, 10/17/2006 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews