The hot condiment on DC menus right now: salsa macha. The nutty, seedy chili oil originated in the port city of Veracruz, Mexico, but has gained “it” status lately thanks to a wave of ambitious new Mexican restaurants.
“It’s super-versatile. You can make it super-spicy. You can make it super-soft. You can introduce so many flavors. It’s like a mother salsa,” says Christian Irabién, chef/owner of Amparo Fondita (2002 P St., NW) in Dupont Circle. He makes a relatively mild version with pasilla-ancho and guajillo chilies that’s nut-free to accommodate allergies. Instead, he goes heavy on sesame, sunflower, pumpkin, and flax seeds. He serves it among a trio of salsas with chips and tosses it with carne asada for tacos and quesadillas. He’s even drizzled it on vanilla ice cream alongside a chocolate tart.
Salsa macha is showing up at non-Mexican restaurants, too. The Macha ’Roni, a spicy, sweet pepperoni pie, is the top seller at Boogy & Peel (1 Dupont Cir., NW). Sous chef Saul Zelaya developed the pizzeria’s version with smoky morita chilies, garlic chips, peanuts, and sesame seeds. Now the place goes through about a quart a day. Owner Rachael Jennings suggests more people are finally discovering the magic of salsa macha thanks to the rise in popularity of chili crisp, the condiment’s Asian cousin. Says Zelaya: “I feel like this is a smokier, nuttier version of the other.”
You can buy salsa macha by the jar at Amparo Fondita (12 ounces for $21) and Boogy & Peel (8 ounces for $13).
Here are five other ways to try it:
- Layered on seasoned Japanese rice with Maine uni and hoja santa leaves at Pascual (732 Maryland Ave., NE).
- Drizzled on pork and smoked-scallop tortellini with fried peanuts at Ellē (3221 Mount Pleasant St., NW).
- Accompanying avocado and chipotle aïoli on yellowfin-tuna tostadas at El Presidente (1255 Union St., NE).
- Adding heat to cured-venison tostadas at Ometeo (1640 Capital One Dr., Tysons).
- Dressing up breakfast tacos with fried eggs and pinto beans at Taco Bamba (multiple area locations).
This article appears in the April 2024 issue of Washingtonian.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
