A stylish Thai eatery in upper Rockville.

June 2005

Cheap and chic aren't always compatible, but this Thai eatery is both. Stylish light fixtures, wood carvings, and fresh flowers make for an eye-catching dining room, and prices belie the artsy plates and quality ingredients found in dishes classic or creative. Spicy Thai salads--we like the grilled beef with lemongrass and chilies--are beautifully done, as are crispy spring rolls with savory bits of chicken and carrot in every bite. Be on the lookout for an occasional special of plump chive dumplings, a Thai delicacy.

The restaurant is known for its deep-fried dishes, most notably one made with duck. Equally good is the whole-fish preparation with garlic and chilies. Curry fans will want to dip into spicy red duck curry or gaeng keow wan, a tasty seafood stew with green chili and coconut. For the noodle crowd, there's pad Thai and savory pad see eew, made with chewy, ultra-wide noodles. Mango with sticky rice is the classic finish.