You don’t have to be a Texan to revel in the barbecue at this sliver of a Chinatown storefront. Brisket slow-smoked for 12 hours is the go-to meat here. Have it in a sandwich or on a platter—and ask for some burnt ends called “brownies.” Besides the usual lineup of ribs and chicken, novelties worth seeking out are the smoked turkey and the smoked sausages from Elgin, Texas.
-March, 2008
Executive Food Editor/Critic
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
