4865 Cordell Ave.
Bethesda, MD 20814
Neighborhood: Bethesda/Glen Echo
Cuisines: Modern, American
Open Monday through Saturday 5 to close. Closed Sunday.
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Nearby Metro Stops: Bethesda
Price Range: Expensive
Noise Level: Chatty
Roasted piquillo pepper with goat cheese; fried oysters in beurre blanc; smoked trout with pears and crème fraîche; mushroom fricassee; calamari with chorizo and lemon; lobster in caramel sauce; roasted balsamic chicken; grilled quail; braised short ribs;
Special Features: Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly, Valet Parking Available, Party Space, Good for Groups
Scene: Food Specials
Happy Hour Details:
Monday through Friday 5 to 7 $5 appetizers, $5 select wines and premium rail cocktails.
Happy Hour Days: Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays
Cuisine: In one of the area’s oldest wine-centric bistros, chef/owner Jeff Heineman says his recipes are inspired by the wines, and the two menus are intelligently paired. The fare is richer than at some other wine bars: First courses of cheese-stuffed meatballs, fried clams or oysters, or even chicken livers set the stage for a filling experience.
Mood: There are booths down the hallway, small wine-cellarish rooms, a half dozen seats at the chef’s table and in front of the kitchen, and a front room with sidewalk views.
Best for: Diners interested in less-familiar varietals and slow, deliberate dinners. Recently, dishes have been scant on salt and acid that would compete with wines but not on fats—an otherwise perfect lobster was cloaked in a butter sauce.
Best dishes: Smoked trout with pears and crème fraîche; grilled quail; braised short ribs; roasted filet mignon with oxtail ragoût; wild Alaskan halibut with green-tomato marmalade and hazelnuts; grilled monkfish with bacon-rich spoonbread, morels, and sweet-corn relish.
Insider tips: Skip the orecchiette, which has been too heavy. “Tempura” here is closer to deep-fried than traditional. Some changes of sides may bring a surcharge.
Open Monday for dinner, Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner. Expensive.