4911 Edmonston Rd.
Hyattsville, MD 20781
Cuisines: South American, Mexican, Breakfast
Open daily except Tuesday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Nearby Metro Stops: West Hyattsville, Landover
Price Range: Inexpensive
Noise Level: Rowdy
Reservations: Not Accepted
Chilaquiles with a fried egg on top; chorizo, salty beef, and tongue tacos; chile relleno; chicken mole; posole; melon, a canteloupe drink.
Appetizers $2.50 to $12.50; entrées $8 to $18.50.
Special Features: Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly
The black plastic plates, the picnic utensils--they're gone, replaced by china on woven placemats and real cutlery. But the cooking at Emma Perez's place has always bespoken these sorts of refinements. Her kitchen executes her multi-page menu with confidence and consistency, as adept with surf--a beautiful and delicious lime-marinated tilapia fanned atop a red-pepper sauce, a ceviche that's among the area's best--as with turf. Grilled beef hearts amount to a cheap steak dinner, and the weekend-only ají de gallina, shredded chicken in a creamy sauce of eggs, olives, and milk, achieves a certain alchemy when mixed with its side of rice.
Even if you're stuffed, you can't leave without a bite of Perez's homemade alfajores--anise shortbread cookies filled with caramel. Sublime.
Also good: Ceviche; Cubano sandwich; papa rellena, mounds of potato stuffed with seasoned meat; causa, rounds of soft-cooked potato with chicken salad or shrimp and avocado; fried whole trout.
Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.