Beloved Barbecue

One of the most thrilling openings of last year was this Japanese-style steakhouse at the food hall Love, Makoto. Inside the sleek, midcentury-mod dining room, you gather at tables outfitted with brass-ringed grills. Beef is the thing here, whether marbly Japanese A5 Wagyu or American prime, and it’s served in thin slices so you can cook it at the table. An omakase option lets you sample a few cuts with some sides, or go à la carte. We lean toward the latter, then load up on extras such as wonderfully comforting short-rib fried rice, wasabi-laced slaw, and a cooling crab salad with smoked roe.