Convivial

For years, Cedric Maupillier has toyed with French and American cuisines (his coq au vin fried chicken was a highlight)—both here at his own Shaw restaurant and at Central Michel Richard. These days, his cooking is staunchly French, and more soul-satisfying than winking. Freshly baked baguettes, cassoulet with tarbais beans, roast chicken with vinegar sauce, and butter-drenched escargots are perfect for a cold night. Then again, so is the one bit of Americana left on the menu: the double cheese­burger.