L’Ardente

Forget smoky cocktails. At this elegantly modern eatery with a penchant for tabletop drama, oysters arrive in a cloud of wispy dry-ice “smoke.” It’s a nifty trick and one that sets the stage for dazzlers to come. Ultra-wide pappardelle with lush white veal ragu gets an unexpected kick from green chilies. Retro veal parmigiana with a blanket of bubbly cheese is about the size of Campania. Butttery hamachi crudo shimmers with kumquat oil. You could find bliss with the fig tart and honey cream, but the tiramisu flambé is so much more fun.