Little Pearl

Can one ever tire of this whimsical kitchen’s signature Angel Eggs? The herby deviled egg yolk, sitting in an “egg white” that’s really crunchy meringue, is a preview of the myriad textural contrasts to come in the seven-course parade of morsels. Crisp potatoes are paired with a velvety poached oyster, charred cabbage arrives with warm Champagne-Parmesan sauce, and rosy slices of dry-aged duck are bright with silky citrus sauce. The restaurant’s thoughtful take-home gift: a mini-carafe of housemade oat milk with an oversize oatmeal cookie.