Perry’s

NFL cheerleader turned chef Masako Morishita has injected new excitement into this 40-year-old Adams Morgan standby with her creative takes on izakaya classics. The native of Kobe, Japan, showers garlic-edamame dumplings in Parmesan and adds wonderfully gummy deep-fried mochi to dashi broth with grated daikon and salmon roe. This is still a reliable destination for sushi, too, but we tend to gravitate toward newer dishes, such as miso-butter clams with udon noodles or a shrimp-katsu burger.