Ruthie’s All Day

American comfort food is done right at this sunny all-day spot. No matter the meal, start with honey-butter-dolloped skillet cornbread and deviled eggs with garlic croutons. At brunch, find generous stacks of apple-pie pancakes and top-tier egg-bacon-and-pimiento-cheese sandwiches on milk bread. For lunch and dinner, anything from the wood-burning hearth is worth considering. We lean toward meat-and-two (or -three) platters starring smoked brisket and sides like braised greens with smoked tomato and pulled-pork pinto beans.