Caruso’s Grocery

It’s easy to rag on red-sauce standards that are as common in sports bars as they are in Italian American restaurants. But calamari and cheesy garlic bread are given the respect they deserve at Matt Adler’s Italian American dining rooms. There’s a Caesar that blows away any desk salad, expertly fried chicken parm, and robust pastas such as bucatini with zesty ragu and a dollop of ricotta.