Fiola

Gorgeous pastas such as box-shaped cubetto—filled with duck and dashed with aged balsamic—are the stars on both the à la carte and leisurely tasting menus at Fabio Trabocchi’s Penn Quarter flagship. The vibe exudes “expense account” (a hushed room, a bottle list that tops out with a $9,850 Chardonnay). But no matter who’s paying, we’d come for dishes like sea bream with olive oil and pepperoncini or tuna crudo with Pantelleria-style caper pesto.