St. Anselm

Servers in concert tees, Ramones on the speakers: Stephen Starr’s steakhouse is for those allergic to anything too corporate-feeling. (Never mind that the restaurateur has 40 places around the country, including the nearby Pastis and El Presidente.) Besides buttery butcher steaks and massive ax-handle rib eyes, the menu does well with the expected stuff—dirty martinis, creamed spinach, deviled eggs. There are wildcards, too, including best-in-class buttermilk biscuits and a delightfully fatty salmon collar.