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By day, Albi chef Michael Rafidi’s casual Levantine cafes turn out destination-­worthy za’atar croissants filled with labneh, silky bowls of hummus, and pita sandwiches stuffed with smoked lamb shoulder or harissa cauliflower. At the Georgetown cafe, evenings bring sit-down service for “(not) pizzas,” wood-fired pies with toppings such as burnt eggplant with smoked feta and urfa chili crisp. Meanwhile, dinner at the newer Union Market sibling focuses on “all the kebabs,” from pomegranate-glazed lamb kofta to harissa chicken thighs.