January 2006 100 Very Best Restaurants: Four Sisters (Huong Que)

The menu is large, listing some 200 dishes, a great many of them unfamiliar to most Westerners, but the gracious staff (yes, there really are four sisters--plus two brothers and their parents) is always ready to advise you on what to order and how to eat

THE SCENE. This large dining room is the site of happy, well-managed chaos, particularly on weekends, when Vietnamese and Westerners mob the restaurant–also known as Four Sisters–for cooking that may not be as bold or assertive as that of some of its 30-plus Eden Center neighbors but is consistently lively and reliable.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. The menu is large, listing some 200 dishes, a great many of them unfamiliar to most Westerners, but the gracious staff (yes, there really are four sisters–plus two brothers and their parents) is always ready to advise you on what to order and how to eat it when it arrives.

WHAT YOU WON'T. Long waits for tables even at nonpeak hours. And because of the crowds, busing occasionally lags, leaving stacks of dirty dishes on nearby tables.

BEST DISHES. Crispy spring rolls and delicate shrimp toast, good introductory courses for the timid; smoky baby clams served with sesame-studded crackers; whole shrimp in their edible shells; caramel short ribs in a hot pot; sautéed frog's legs with silver noodle, mushrooms, and curry.

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